The Most Exciting New Watches of 2023 (So Far)

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From microbrands to Timex to Rolex.

We're barely halfway into 2023, but the year's already given watch fans plenty to get excited about. As always, anniversaries are a major theme in 2023, and the reissues have been flowing forth — a trend we most certainly saw at Watches & Wonders Geneva, the industry's biggest trade show, where brands like Rolex, Tudor and Panerai release their most important products of the year.

But vintage flair isn't the only thing defining watches in 2023. This year's best new models also show a confident industry experimenting and continuing to push bold, fresh and forward-looking designs. See those, new releases from Seiko, Omega, microbrands and more below.

Bookmark this page and return often, as we'll update it throughout the year with the most notable new watches of 2023.

Aquastar Model 60

You know how you turn the bezel on a dive watch and it clicks — i.e., it ratchets? We take it for granted today, but it was Aquastar that introduced that feature back in 1960s with this watch. Well, with the watch of which this new model is a reissue, to be more precise. That same watch was even worn aboard the bathyscaphe Triest to the bottom of the Challenger Deep. This modern version comes in a 37mm package that's 11mm thick but still water-resistant to 200m.

Diameter: 37mm Movement: La Joux-Perret G100 automatic Price: $1,290 ($990 pre-order)

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Aquastar

Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler

Doxa teamed up with Watches of Switzerland to create a version of its Sub 300T dive watch dedicated to novelist and explorer Clive Cussler — who was known to mention Doxa dive watches by name in his novels. Fitting the adventure theme, the case and bracelet have a "distressed" gunmetal-like appearance (which we're generally fans of on watches) and the dial looks like age paper with a compass rose motif at its center.

Diameter: 42.5mmMovement: ETA 2824 automaticPrice: $2,690

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Doxa

JN Shapiro Resurgence

Like all JN Shapiro watches, the new Resurgence is dense with stunning craftsmanship and exotic crafts all produced in the brand's own studio in California. What makes this watch different, however, is that it even extends to the movement here. As many as 148 of the 180 components were made in-house, more yet made in the USA, and that helps it stake a claim as the most fully American-made watch in decades.

Diameter: 38mmMovement: JN Shapiro RresurgencePrice: $70,000-$85,000

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Atom Moore

Nivada Antarctic Diver

Within Nivada's catalog, "Antarctic" is most associated with a Rolex Explorer-style field watch. But the dive watch upon which the brand's latest issue is based has just as much historical cred: hailing from the 1950s and offering a skindiver appeal, it was Nivada's first dive watch. The modern reissue is a bit bigger at 38mm than the original (36.5mm) but still a great size for a dive watch and still rated to 200m of water resistance.

Diameter: 38mmMovement: Soprod P024 automaticPrice: $1,000

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Nivada

Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver

Maurice Lacroix has put much of its attention on its sports-chic integrated bracelet-style Aikon in recent years, but it's now resurrected one of its earlier models: the Pontos S Diver. With an internal rotating bezel that's operated via the 2 o'clock crown, we were fans of it back in the day, and it looks great with an even more approachable size at 42mm (down from 43mm). It comes in three versions at launch, each on a rubber strap, and one one with a bronze case. We hope to see other Pontos S models return as well, such as the Chronograph.

Diameter: 42mmMovement: Sellita SW200 automaticPrice: ~$2,200

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mauricelacroix

Citizen NJ015 Automatic "Tsuyosa"

The Citizen Tsuyosa was first introduced to certain markets around the world, but it's now finally coming the USA. With a 40mm diameter, Citizen's basic automatic movement and sapphire crystal, it offers a handsome versatility that seems comparable to watches like a Rolex Datejust — but it also has one element that'll automatically kick its attractiveness up a notch for many enthusiasts: an integrated bracelet design a là hype watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Available from May 23.

Diameter: 40mmMovement: Miyota 8210 automaticPrice: $450

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CITIZEN

Zodiac Sea-Chron

Though a natural extension of its Sea Wolf collection, Zodiac's new Sea-Chron is a little outside of what we normally expect from the brand. That's because a chronograph is substantially more complicated than most of the tool watches Zodiac makes. Building on the brand's vintage archives and DNA, it's got a hell of a retro-sporty look, a 72-hour power reserve and a couple of colorways.

Diameter: 42mmMovement: Sellita SW510 B automaticPrice: $2,495

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Zodiac

Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine Gold: Pink Full Moon

A year after Swatch caused utter madness with its unprecedented MoonSwatch, it followed up with a new version — identical to the previously available Mission to the Moon, but featuring a gold seconds hand. Now, the latest version is a tweak on that watch: it adds a pink tip to the gold seconds hand and takes the name Pink Full Moon. One thing that makes this different from previous MoonSwatches is that it's a limited edition.

Diameter: 42.5mmMovement: QuartzPrice: $285

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Swatch

Seiko 5 Sports x Rowing Blazers

Rowing Blazers continues to knock it out of the park with its Seiko 5 Sports collabs. The latest is similar to the previous collection but adds new colors of pink, purple, yellow and white dials for a summery vibe. The Seiko 5 Sports collection is insanely good to begin with, but Rowing Blazers always manages to do something special. Each of these collaboration watches is, we dare say, instantly collectible.

Diameter: 40mmMovement: Seiko 4R36 automatic Price: $495

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Seiko

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT Worldtimer

Omega has added to its Worldtimer lineup in the Aqua Terra collection with four new models. Two are in steel, one is in brand's Sedna gold and one is in titanium with bold 43mm cases. While it's got GMT in the name, this operates like a world timer with the glass 24-hour disc in the dial's center turning to line up with global cities displayed at the dial's peripher. The 3D world map motif with continents in relief and blue ocean is created by laser ablation.

Diameter: 43mmMovement: Omega 8938 automaticPrice: $9,200-$44,100

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Omega

Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman

A more restrained size and design makes the Khaki Navy Frogman, in our humble opinion, Hamilton's new flagship dive watch. Bringing the diameter down from a rather giant and aggressive presence to 41mm suddenly makes it highly wearable as an every day watch — while remaining distinctive with its crown protector and arrow-shaped hour hand.

Diameter: 41mmMovement: Hamilton (ETA) H-10 automaticPrice: $1,195

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Hamilton

Three new versions of the TAG Heuer Monaco offer a distinctly modern take on the sporty chronograph. Each features a titanium case, skeletonized dial and vibrant highlights that help retain good legibility (which can be an issue in skeletonized watches) and comes on a rubber-and-leather strap. The movement on display through the dial (and caseback) is the brand's own in-house Heuer 02. We're especially drawn to the version in black DLC with its minty green lume.

Diameter: 39mmMovement: TAG Heuer Heuer 02 automaticPrice: $10,750-$11,250

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TAG Heuer

Horage Lensman 2 Exposure

There's a lot of crossover between watch guys and photographers. Swiss watchmaker Horage isn't the first to capitalize, but they do offer a novel approach, an interesting look — and an in-house GMT movement with a micro-rotor. The Lensman 2 Exposure watch is made to help photographers calculate camera settings in what they call a "mechanical cheat sheet for manual photography." Rotate the bezel so the ISO setting aligns with your lighting conditions (indicated by icons) and the corresponding ideal aperture and shutter speed will line right up.

Diameter: 39mmMovement: Horage K2 Microrotor GMT automaticPrice: ~$6,600 (~$5,480 pre-order)

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Horage

Praesidus A-5 UDT

The "canteen watch." It's kind of legendary as the funky-looking result of early experiments with the waterproof watches navy divers needed in WWII. Watchmakers have riffed on the concept of a screw-on crown cover secured by a chain, but Praesidus is offering pretty damn near a remake. Though larger at 38mm wide than the original's 31mm-32mm, it offers a pretty cool modern edition of a classic military watch — because that's what Preasidus is largely dedicated to doing. The price is right, too.

Diameter: 38mmMovement: Soprod P024 automaticPrice: $550

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Praesidus

Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Tourbillon 39mm

Over $15,000 might sound like a lot to spend on a watch (and it is), but in the world of Swiss-made tourbillon watches, it's considered an aggressive value proposition. It's not the first time for Frederique Constant to offer that with its own in-house movement, but a gold version released at Watches & Wonders represented a new and welcome size at 39mm. In gold it was naturally more expensive, but the brand has now released two models in steel (silver and blue dials), at the same wearable size.

Diameter: 39mmMovement: Frederique Constant FC-980 automaticPrice: $15,695

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Frederique Constant Geneve

Marathon Steel Navigator

First made in 1986 for the Kelly Air Force Base, the Marathon Navigator is a military watch classic. Produced to government specifications, like all of the brand's watches, it was originally made in steel but has used cases made of "composite fiber shell" since the 1990s. Those might be perfectly practical and durable, but the model has now returned to its origins with a case in steel. Military watch fans will rejoice.

Diameter: 41mmMovement: ETA F06.412 HeavyDrive-PreciDrive QuartzPrice: $800-$830

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Marathon

Yema Urban Field

Funny, we didn't even realize that a proper field watch was missing from Yema's lineup, but now that it's here it makes total sense. We like its size(s) with 37.5mm and 40mm options, its thinness at just 7.8mm thick thanks to a hand-wound Sellita SW210 movement visible through the case back — and we like its bonklip bracelet, though it's also available on a beads-of-rice bracelet with an endlink designed to fit flush with the case. It comes in five dial colors and includes an extra strap.

Diameter: 37.5mm, 40mmMovement: Sellita SW210 hand-woundPrice: $1,099-$1,249

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Christopher Ward The Twelve

Christopher Ward joins the integrated-bracelet fray with its new watch, The Twelve. "Integrated bracelet?" Of course, we're referring to watches in the tradition of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak with features like the aforementioned bracelet design, faceted bezels, textured dials, etc. The Twelve has all those and other traits that have made such watches hype machines, but one major difference is an affordable price. It comes in multiple dial colors in steel, and with a couple models in titanium.

Diameter: 40mmMovement: Sellita SW200-1 automaticPrice: $1,225-$1,895

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Christopher Ward

Timex x Huckberry Ironman Flix Reissue

Nostalgic for the '90s? Timex and Huckberry have got you covered. The brands have partnered to reissue a specific model of the Timex Ironman from 1999 right down to the details. It's actually created from the same mold as the original. Of course it's got all the features that have made the Ironman a favorite of athletes over the decades, including Indiglo, but this throwback limited edition seems more stylish than the original ever did.

Diameter: 44mmMovement: QuartzPrice: $109

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Huckberry

Unimatic Modello Quattro UT4-B

The Unimatic U4 has long seemed like a mix between a dive and a field watch, but with a new dial design it leans ever so slightly more toward the field spectrum. It otherwise maintains similar dimensions (though a little thinner) and specs (including 300m of water resistance), but it's powered by a quartz movement. Quartz isn't for cost-cutting, as it's nearly the same price as the automatic version, and here it contributes its robustness to a truly tough little watch.

Diameter: 40mmMovement: Seiko VH31 quartzPrice: ~$440

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Unimatic

Luminox Pacific Diver Ripple

Luminox is extending its Pacific Diver series of dive watches with new, smaller and simpler versions. We approve. Though the original chronograph models are very cool and tough, their 45mm diameter offers a bold wearing experience. Now with simple, time-only (no chronograph) functionality and 39mm diameters, there are equally tough watches but ones that'll be easier to wear in a range of circumstances.

Diameter: 39mmMovement: Ronda 515 quartzPrice: $645-$695

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Luminox

Mr Jones A Perfectly Useless Afternoon Mechanical

British brand Mr Jones is all about watches as art. With a design focus, they're often affordable with quartz movements, but the latest offers one of its most popular designs with a Swiss automatic movement inside. Here you read the hour by the bather's foot and the minutes by the yellow duckie. It remains fun and affordable considering its specs, but offers that little bit more interest for watch snobs who prefer springs to batteries.

Diameter: 40mmMovement: STP 1-11 automaticPrice: $550

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Mr Jones Watches

Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT

Yema's partnership with the French navy (Marine National) has yielded some of our favorite models from the brand. With a crisp blue and white colorway (with sporty yellow highlights), this outcrop of the Superman dive watch line (also including GMTs) features the brand's exclusive automatic GMT movement and measures a very reasonable 38.5mm wide and 46mm lug-to-lug.

Diameter: 38.5mmMovement: YEMA3000 automaticPrice: $1,349

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Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Skeleton 6-15

The newest Zodiac Super Sea Wolf watch is notable for a couple reasons. Apart from the obvious aesthetic shock of it, it's rather unexpected for the otherwise tool-watch-focused brand to make a watch with a skeletonized dial and movement. The rainbow bezel isn't so much a surprise, as the brand is known for going colorful, but it does make this model all the wilder. Following the brand's very cool ceramic watch, it makes us wonder if there's a general expansion at the brand to more than just practical tool watches.

Diameter: 40mm Movement: STP 6-15 automaticPrice: $1,895

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Zodiac

Konstantin Chaykin x Louis Erard Time Eater

Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin is known for his Joker series of watches that use the subdials and complications to create literal faces on your watch face. Along with collabs, Swiss watchmaker Louis Erard is known for regulator watches that display the minutes around the main dial and the hours, separately, in a subdial. Teaming up to combine these concepts results in something that looks like a one-eyed alien with rotating sawteeth (that's the seconds subdial).

Diameter: 39mm, 42mmMovement: Sellita SW266-1 automaticPrice: ~$4,450

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Louis Erard

Ralph Lauren RL867

With a thin, manually wound movement, the latest versions of Ralph Lauren's RL867 watches are some of the coolest in the square dress watch category. Featuring the same Art-Deco style, these new models add to the existing (35mm) collection with new sizes of 28mm and 32mm, each in gold and silver (not steel) cases and creamy-white dials. They look fetching as hell, if you ask us.

Diameter: 28mm, 32mmMovement: Ralph Lauren RL430 hand-woundPrice: $8,250-$17,000

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Autodromo x Hodinkee Group B Rallysport Chronograph

Automotive-themed microbrand Autodromo's popular Group B collection of watches gets a big update we didn't see coming: a chronograph version featuring a Swiss mechanical movement — for a pretty reasonable price. It comes in five color variants and keeps the sizing nice and wearable at 40mm with a reasonable thickness of 13.4mm.

Diameter: 40mmMovement: Sellita SW510 MB hand-woundPrice: $1,450

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Group B

Seiko 5 Sports SKX Sports Style 38mm

The existing flagship model in the Seiko 5 Sports is the SKX Sports Style. It's 42.5mm and we had zero complaints about its size — it wears incredibly well. But a 38mm version also sounds highly enticing, and in step with the times. It comes in this trendy minty green (SRPK33), orange (SRPK35), white (SRPK31) and black (SRPK29) — the latter of which would seem to make it a great affordable alternative to something like the new, 37mm Tudor Black Bay 54.

Diameter: 38mmMovement: Seiko 4R36 automaticPrice: TBD (expect around $300 or less)

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Seiko

Timex Q Three Time Zone Chronograph

Timex continues to surprise us with relatively complicated watches. The latest is one that combines a chronograph and a second hour hand which can be set separately to track another time zone. It looks like a GMT, but only tracks 12 hours, rather than 24. The 12 o'clock subdial, however, does track 24 hours, essentially giving the watch GMT-equivalent functionality. Why do they call it "Three Time Zone" in the name? You can use the 12-hour bezel to track yet another time zone.

Diameter: 40mmMovement: QuartzPrice: $219 (strap); $239 (bracelet)

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Casio G-Shock 40th Anniversary Project Team Tough GMWB5000

To mark another anniversary, G-Shock is giving the popular all-metal versions of its most iconic watch an unusual skin. These have a surface treatment called recrystallization which, in addition to other hardening treatments, creates a unique texture that feels unexpected on a G-Shock — or on watches altogether.

Diameter: 43.2mm Movement: Casio quartz, Tough Solar, Multiband 6, BluetoothPrice: $870

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Watches & Wonders Geneva is the watch world's biggest and most important trade show. It's where the who's who of watchmaking announce their new lineups, and we were there to try on all the 2023 models for ourselves. Here's what stood out as novel, notable or just beautiful.

With contributions by Johnny Brayson

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Titanium

Rolex finally released the titanium Yacht-Master many had anticipated since a prototype was spotted in 2021. It comes on a full (RLX) titanium bracelet and takes the otherwise swanky, yachting-themed collection in a decidedly sportier and more tool-watch direction with a monochromatic, Submariner-like aesthetic.

Diameter: 42mmMovement: Rolex 3235 automaticPrice: 13,400 CHF (~$14,600)

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Rolex

Tudor Black Bay 54

Tudor introduced an entirely new line within its Black Bay collection. Referencing the Rolex Submariner reference 7922 from 1954, it feels like a Tudor for purists with no date and a 37mm diameter, and enough changes to make it feel like more than merely a downsized Black Bay 58. It comes in steel bracelet and rubber strap options — and we can confirm that it wears absolutely great on the wrist.

Diameter: 37mmMovement: Tudor MT5400 automaticPrice: $3,625-$3,850

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IWC Ingenieur

Everybody kind of knew IWC had to do it, and they did: they brought back the most distinctive version of the IWC Ingenieur from the 1970s as designed by the one-and-only Gerald Genta. As everyone else is reaching to get in on the integrated-bracelet (or "sports-chic," or whatever you might call watches in the style of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak) game, IWC has one of the OGs in its back catalog. They also kept it perfectly sized at 40mm and thin at 10.8mm, powered by an in-house movement.

Diameter: 40mmMovement: IWC 32111 automaticPrice: TBD

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Zenith Pilot

Zenith completely reinvented its pilot collection this year. Gone is the classic look that nods to early 20th century watches, and in its place is a distinctly modern, lifestyle-oriented watch. And yet, it retains nods to the classical design as well as convincingly recalling the brand's aviation history. The new watches come in time-only and flyback chronograph variants in steel or ceramic cases.

Diameter: 40mmMovement: Zenith El Primero 3620 automatic Price: $7,500

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Zenith

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Tentagraph

Evolution 9 is one Grand Seiko's top-shelf collection, and it continues to evolve. The Tentagraph features a new movement and a new look for the brand with a more traditionally sporty chronograph powered by a mechanical movement (as opposed to a Spring Drive movement as found in previous Grand Seiko chronographs). It operates at a high frequency (5Hz) and has a full three-day power reserve — with the chronograph running.

Diameter: 43.2mmMovement: Grand Seiko 9SA5 automaticPrice: $13,700

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Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

Easily the star of the show from Vacheron Constantin this year is a combination of some of the traits and features the brand is best known for. In the brand's most crowd-pleasing collection, the sporty Overseas, this model features retrograde date and moon phase displays (it's right there in the name) but it all comes together (with that striking blue dial) in a way that's approachable but also displays Vacheron's high sense of refinement.

Diameter: 40mmMovement: Vacheron Constantin 2460 R31L/2 automaticPrice: On request

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Vacheron Constantin

Rolex Perpetual 1908

Rolex rarely releases an entirely new collection. But, among other surprises, that's exactly what they did this year by introducing the 1908. It's dressy, and sport watches tend to hog the spotlight, but this replacement for the Cellini line shouldn't be overlooked. It's the brand's most dedicated dress watch, it's the only one that's sold on a leather strap and it even introduced a new automatic movement from the brand which offers a seconds subdial and 66 hours of power reserve — and, another departure for the brand, it's visible through a display caseback.

Diameter: 39mmMovement: Rolex 7140 automaticPrice: $22,000-$23,300

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Rolex

Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Full Titanium

In a continuing partnership with Richard Orlinski, Hublot released another version of its Classic Fusion based on the artist's signature geometric style. This time, it comes in a chronograph version with a more traditional (i.e., flat) dial, and the geometric theme is continued onto the bracelet. What makes this one particularly stand out in person is its matte finished titanium case that makes the facets especially interesting.

Diameter: 41mmMovement: Hublot HUB1153 automaticPrice: $18,200

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Hublot

Chanel J12 Cybernetic

What you are looking at is not simply some artistic watch graphic: it's an artistic watch graphic made real and rendered in ceramic. Yes, this new version of the famous Chanel J12 actually looks like this in real life and those pixelated looking elements are three-dimensional. Is it a watch you'll want to wear everyday to the office? Perhaps not. But is it weird and surprising art we're glad exists and which adds some spice to a trade show like Watches & Wonders? For sure. It's part of a rather wild but playful capsule collection called Interstellar.

Diameter: 38mmMovement: Chanel Caliber 12.1 automaticPrice: $13,900

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Chanel

Parmigiani Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante

If you've got a dive watch, you might use its rotating bezel for timing all kinds of activities measured in minutes. But what if you decided to make that function a more complicated horological challenge and do it mechanically. That's what Parmigiani has done, more or less. See that gold hand? You can advance it by one or five minute increments using the pushers on the lefthand side of the case. Then, when you're done timing whatever it is you're timing, hit the pusher in the crown (right side) and the hand will snap back and hide under the minute hand. Pretty cool, clever and novel.

Diameter: 40mmMovement: Parmignian PF052 automaticPrice: $30,600

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Parmigiani Fleurier

Tudor Black Bay METAS

Though Tudor's newest Black Bay has a familiar look, look closer: that "Master Chronometer" text on the dial is some of the biggest news from the brand this year (though slightly overshadowed by the stylish Black Bay 54). Previously, only the limited-edition Black Bay Ceramic featured the stringent certification from METAS that guarantees some of the highest quality watches and movements in the industry.

Diameter: 41mmMovement: Tudor MT5602-U automaticPrice: $4,725

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TUDOR

Rolex Day-Date "Puzzle"

This year, Rolex released a range of totally unexpected products. Among them, were some special lacquered dial watches in the Oyster Perpetual and Day-Date collections. The Day-Dates features more than playfully vibrant puzzle motifs: they also replace the day and date displays with inspirational words and emojis, respectively. So today might be, for example, Hope, the 😺th or Love, the ❤️st.

Diameter: 36mmMovement: Rolex 3255 automaticPrice: On request

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Rolex

Cartier Tank Privé Normale

The Cartier Tank comes in many forms and variants, but the new Tank Privé Normale nods to the earliest Tank watches Cartier made in the beginning of the 20th century. How so? It's in the squatter case shape and its flatter, more angular facets than are found on the more familiar rounded Tanks. It only comes in precious metals (there are skeletonized versions, as well) and feature hand-wound movements.

Diameter: 25.7mm (x 32.6mm x 6.85mm)Movement: Cartier 070 hand-woundPrice: $30,150-$52,000

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Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva LE 100

The dial of Montblanc's coolest release for Watches & Wonders certainly looks like a chronograph. But where are the pushers? There's not even a button integrated into the crown as on monopusher chronographs. Well, it is indeed a chrono, so how do you operate it? The answer is in that grippy bezel. Here the fluted design isn't just for aesthetics: you turn it to stop, start and reset the chronograph. This is the kind of cool watchmaking you can expect coming out of the Minerva factory which is now part of Montblanc.

Diameter: 42.5mmMovement: Montblanc MB M13.21 hand-woundPrice: $40,500

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Montblanc

Chopard LUC 1860

We've said it before: Chopard's LUC line is one of the best kept secrets in watches. It's the brand's high-end line, and the collection is home to surprisingly excellent watchmaking. The newest model recalls the LUC line's earliest models from the 1990s with a smaller case (which is welcome as many current models are on the bigger side). With a guilloche salmon dial and a beautiful, in-house micor-rotor movement, it's everything we love about LUC.

Diameter: 36.5mmMovement: Chopard L.U.C 96.40-L automaticPrice: $23,200

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Chopard

Rolex GMT-Master II Black & Gray

The Crown has introduced a brand-new bezel to its GMT-Master II line of travel watches in bi-color black and gray Cerachrom and attached it to a pair of new references: the yellow gold 126718GRNR and the two-tone "Rolesor" 126713GRNR. Both watches come on a Jubilee bracelet and otherwise have the same specs as the rest of the GMT-Master II line. Might as well go ahead and add them both to the list of Rolex sport watches that will be impossible to buy at retail.

Diameter: 40mm Movement: Rolex Calibre 3285 automatic GMTPrice: $38,900 in gold, $16,450 in Rolesor

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Rolex

Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007G

Patek got unexpectedly sporty at this year's show with a colorful spin on the classic Calatrava. The new 6007G series comes in a polished white gold case featuring a black dial with a carbon fiber motif in its center, a matching carbon-patterned calfskin strap and colorful accents throughout in either yellow, red or sky blue. Despite its sporty looks and lumed indices, this is more of a sporty dress watch than a real sport watch, as water resistance is rated to just 30m.

Diameter: 40mm Movement: Patek Philippe Caliber 26‑330 S C automaticPrice: $37,850

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

At first glance, JLC's newest member of its Reverso Tribute family looks like the rest of the classically-styled line. But the two small chronograph pushers flanking the crown clue you in that there's more going on. Flip around the case and you'll find the watch's second dial as a skeletonized beauty featuring a clock face along with a chronograph seconds display and an impressive retrograde 30-minute counter, all housed in a stainless steel case.

Diameter: 49.4mm x 29.9mm Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 860 mechanical chronographPrice: $21,400

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Jaeger-LeCoultre

Panerai Radiomir California

Panerai has gone even more retro than usual with this addition to its vintage-inspired Radiomir line. The Radiomir California, ref. PAM01349, is the first-ever 45mm Radiomir with an old-school California dial. The distinct dial layout appears on a matte green fumé dial and is encased in Panerai's Brunito eSteel, a recycled steel that's been treated to achieve a distressed and aged look.

Diameter: 45mm Movement: Panerai P.5000 Calibre mechanicalPrice: $12,300

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TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36

Is this TAG Heuer's Oyster Perpetual killer? When Rolex launched a series of colorful dials on the OP a few years back, brands like Sinn and Omega followed suit. Now TAG seems to have its answer with this new 36mm sport watch. The unisex-aimed models are available with sunburst dials in gray, blue and green, but the real standout is this head-turning hot pink version.

Diameter: 36mmMovement: TAG Heuer Calibre 7 automaticPrice: $3,200

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TAG Heuer

Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition

Oris adds to its modern ProPilot X line with a Disney-licensed Kermit Edition. The titanium watch has the same in-house movement and case design as its siblings, albeit 4mm larger. But the star here is the bright green dial featuring the eponymous muppet's face in the date window replacing the first of the month. Oris calls this "Kermit Day" and encourages wearers to not take life too seriously.

Diameter: 43mmMovement: Oris Calibre 400 automaticPrice: $4,600

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Oris

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

The Odysseus Chronograph is German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne first-ever automatic chronograph. Executed in stainless steel and limited to 100 pieces, the new watch sports center-mounted minutes and seconds hands for the chronograph along with the Oysseus line's usual big date and day displays. A cool feature: pulling out the crown to the date-setting position allows you to set the day and date using the chronograph pushers, without affecting the chronograph.

Diameter: 42.5mmMovement: Lange L156.1 automatic chronographPrice: By request

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Oris ProPilot Altimeter

Oris takes pilot watches to another level with a mechanical altimeter in its ProPilot Altimeter watch. It's the only mechanical watch to do so. This year, it's bringing the model back, updated with a 3D-printed carbon fiber case featuring a slimmer design. The altitude scale is available in feet or meters.

Diameter: 47mmMovement: Oris (modified) 793 automaticPrice: $6,500

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Oris

Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph

Bulgari's flagship watch is its Octo Finissimo, but this year it's focusing attention on another sub-line within the Octo: the Octo Roma. It introduced several new versions of the time-only Roma with new dial colors, but a chronograph is new to the collection. It also introduced several high-end tourbillon versions.

Diameter: 42mmMovement: Bulgari BVL339 automaticPrice: 9,900 EUR

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Bulgari

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox

The Carrera turns 60 this year, and TAG Heuer is naturally marking the occasion with special editions. Though not reissues, they reinterpret classic Carrera cues such as the raised crystal shape known as "glassbox." They feature the latest generation of TAG's in-house movement and come in an excellently sized 39mm case. These more traditional and affordable Carreras are also introduced alongside a 42mm tourbillon version.

Diameter: 39mmMovement: TAG Heuer Heuer 02 TH20-00 automaticPrice: TBD

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TAG Heuer

Longines Spirit Flyback

Introducing the flyback chronograph in 1929 and later patenting it, Longines claims to be the inventor of this variation of this complication. The brand also has a strong legacy in aviation, and the Spirit Flyback seems to connect all those dots nicely, but in a modern feeling way. The flyback is also new for the modern brand and it's courtesy of an exclusive movement developed with its sister brand ETA.

Diameter: 42mmMovement: Longines (ETA) L791 automatic (COSC-certified)Price: $4,450-$4,550

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Longines

Breitling Top Time B01 Ford Thunderbird

The Breitling Top Time collection got a significant upgrade this year with the inclusion of the brand's in-house B01 automatic chronograph movement. This also means that it joins the price range of other watches that feature the movement. Existing models in the collection got the movement upgrade, and an entirely new model in the Ford Thunderbird version was also introduced.

Diameter: 41mmMovement: Breitling B01 automaticPrice: $8,000-$8,450

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Breitling

Doxa Sub 200 C-Graph II

Yes, it's a sequel to the Doxa Sub 200 C-Graph, and at first glance it might not look drastically different. But this "Part 2" is three millimeters smaller bringing its case width to 42mm and into a much more wearable and popular range. Of course, it comes in the brand's signature six colors and on strap and bracelet options. It's a good time to be alive for fans of watches that aren't especially gargantuan.

Diameter: 42mmMovement: Sellita SW510 automaticPrice: $2,850-$2,890

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Doxa

Biver Carillion Tourbillon Biver

Few people have had as much prominent impact on watches in recent decades as Jean-Claude Biver. Though also a collector of restrained Patek Philippe watches, he's best known for the brash and bold luxury-lifestyle looks of sporty and skeletonized Hublot watches, a formula that he also took to LVMH sister brands Zenith and TAG Heuer. Now, he's finally started his own namesake brand with his 22-year-old son Pierre, and it's just released its first watch. He went full-on haute horlogerie with a minute repeater, tourbillon and stone dials.

Diameter: 42mmMovement: JCB-001Price: $570,000-$1,315,000

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Biver

De Bethune DB8

When you think of modern De Bethune, most people that know the brand will likely think of highly avant-garde, sci-fi-inspired horological masterpieces. (Ok, "masterpieces" is how I think of them, at least.) The brand's latest, however, is a monopusher chronograph that looks much more traditional and recalls its earliest watches as a way to recall its 21 years of watches and its first model, the DB1.

Diameter: 42.4mmMovement: De Bethune DB3000 hand-woundPrice: $90,000

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De Bethune

Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer

A bezel decorated with city names doesn't make this dive watch an actual worldtime watch. But what you do have is an incredibly captivating look, based on a legit vintage model, with GMT functionality and excellent sizing at 40.5mm. It also comes in two equally delightful colorways for pretty reasonable prices.

Diameter: 40.5mmMovement: ETA C07.661 automaticPrice: $1,310

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Nivada F77

Though obscure, Nivada had an interpretation of the Royal Oak (or Ingenieur, or what-have-you) of its own back in the day (1977), too. As the modern brand is committed purely to vintage reissues, that's exactly what this is. More importantly, though, it's one of the most affordable alternatives in the genre you'll find today with actual historical justification.

Diameter: 37mmMovement: Soprod P024 automaticPrice: $1,150

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Nivada

Seiko Prospex Diver's GMT

Seiko did it again: it introduced an extremely competitive automatic GMT. This time a step up from last year's 5 Sports GMT, it builds on a higher tier of automatic movement (6R) from the brand featuring three days of power reserve. All that in one of the brand's mid-tier, ISO-certified dive watches sounds like a hell of a value at $1,500.

Diameter: 42mmMovement: Seiko 6R54 automaticPrice: $1,500-$1,700

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato Aston Martin Edition

Girard-Perregaux has a precedent of using ceramic and of working with Aston Martin. But colors other than black or gray for entire watch cases and bracelets is rare. For the latest collaboration with the carmaker, it's rendered its Laureato sport watch in fully monochromatic "British racing green." It comes in 38mm and 42mm versions.

Diameter: 38mm, 42mmMovement: Girard-Perregaux GP3300 automaticPrice: $25,000-$25,800

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Citizen Eco-Drive 365

Yeah, it's got a funky, '70s-ish look, but the most interesting part of Citizen's announcement is the tech inside and how it furthers the brand's solar-charging movements. As indicated in the name, it'll run for an entire year on a full charge — about double that of existing Eco-Drive movements, which is similar to other prominent makers of solar-charging watches. It comes in three versions at launch, but we look forward to seeing the tech in more Citizen watches.

Diameter: 42.5mmMovement: Citizen E365 Eco-DrivePrice: $480-$875

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Citiz

Bremont Broadsword Recon

The Bremont Broadsword is a contemporary take on the legendary British "Dirty Dozen" watches of the 1940s. This newest version has what's known as a "sandwich dial." That means a dial with cutouts to a dial below and lume sandwiched between them. The result is a more 3D, dynamic look, and more lume means more glow.

Diameter: 40mmMovement: Sellita SW260 automatic COSCPrice: $3,695

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Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Auto Chrono

Hamilton introduced an entire new line within its Jazzmaster collection called the Performer. It includes some handsome three-hand watches in 38mm and 34mm sizes, but it's the 42mm chronograph that stands out. While (arguably) not looking too much like a homage, this might be about the best affordable alternative to the likes of a Rolex Daytona or Omega Speedmaster you can currently get.

Diameter: 42mmMovement: Hamilton (ETA) H-31 (Valjoux 7753) automaticPrice: $2,195-$2,245

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Sinn T50

We loved when Sinn downsized its iconic but gigantic U1 dive watch to 41mm in the U50. Now, it's offering the same watch as the T50, "T" being for its case material of titanium. It comes in variations offering strap and full titanium bracelet offerings, but the T50 GBDR version is especially striking, pairing a titanium case to a bezel made of the brand's own bronze alloy.

Diameter: 41mmMovement: Sellita SW300 automaticPrice: $4,670

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Timex Marlin Sub-Dial Automatic

Deft design and thoughtful details make the new Marlin fit right in line with Timexes that have won over even snobby collectors in recent years. The automatic Miyota 8217 inside, however, offers something not often seen in this price range: a complication. Sure it's simple, offering the current time in 24-hour format (not to be confused with a second time zone), but it adds some interest and perhaps even utility.

Diameter: 39mmMovement: Miyota 8217Price: $269

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Angelus Chronographe Medical x Massena Lab

The modern, resurrected brand Angelus makes highly sporty, often avant-garde watches that look little like its historical namesake's famous chronographs. That's why it was cool and surprising to see this classically styled doctor's chronograph based on a vintage model and conceived in partnership with Massena Lab. It's pared back to focus on two main functions: measuring a patient's pulse and rate of respiration. We can look forward to more vintage reissues from Angelus in its new La Fabrique collection.

Diameter: 39mmMovement: Angelus A5000 hand-woundPrice: $19,900

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Angelus

Longines Pilot Majetek 1935

Resurrecting a design from 1935 made for the Czechoslovakian air force, Longines's new pilot's watch has a twist you might not notice right away. There's a little triangle at the edge of the dial which, despite being under the glass, rotates when you turn the bezel thanks to some clever engineering. Compared to the original, it has crown guards, is 2mm larger, and has some other design features that make it feel more like a modern sport watch.

Diameter: 43mmMovement: Longines (ETA) L893Price: $3,850

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Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Piaget combines its Polo integrated-sport watch design with a highly complicated perpetual calendar movement and its mastery of making watches ultra-thin — oh, and a green dial. How thin? Not the thinnest in the world, but 8.65mm ain't bad for all the complexity inside, and it's got automatic winding, too. It might be the most striking variant of the Polo to date.

Diameter: 42mmMovement: Piaget 1255P automaticPrice: $58,500

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Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Panda

Normally, we’re not inclined to simply highlight new colorways of existing watch models. But the Vacheron Constantin Overseas is an important model and the "panda dial" is something of a hype colorway. We must say that, paired together, they make for one of the coolest versions of the prestige sport watch.

Diameter: 42.5mmMovement: Vacheron Constantin 5200 automatic Price: $32,400

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Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa

Following the first release of what promises to be a year of cool Fifty Fathoms watches from Blancpain, the brand has given us something novel in its iconic dive watch. The "Tech" part of the name refers what will be a new line within the Fifty Fathoms collection focusing on tech diving. It features a helium escape valve, a fourth hand that goes around the hand in three hours (and bezel markers for tracking it) for specialized diving situations. Its titanium case also features unconventional center lugs, meaning it necessitates an integrated strap design.

Diameter: 47mmMovement: Blancpain 13P8 automaticPrice: $28,000

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King Seiko 49mm

New King Seiko watches might look at first simply like new colorways for the existing collection, but there's one big difference: they’re 2mm bigger. Yes, while everyone else is apparently shrinking watch sizes, the admittedly already vintage-sized 37mm King Seiko watches (which aren't disappearing) are joined by new 39mm versions. Can't complain about options, right?

Diameter: 39mmMovement: Seiko 6R55Price: $1,800

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Vulcain Nautique Skindiver

Though best known for its Cricket alarm watch, historic brand Vulcain is in the process of being revitalized with a range of vintage reissues, and the Skindiver Nautique is one of the latest. There are a bunch of vintage reissue dive watches out there, but this one is especially captivating. It's a near exact replica of of the original (though one millimeter wider), and it comes in a couple variants with black or blue dials and beige-colored lume for that aged effect.

Diameter: 38mmMovement: ETA 2824 automaticPrice: $1,616

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Accutron Astronaut

Accutron released a reissue of its vintage Astronaut, a well known watch among vintage collectors, and this version specifically resurrects the "T" model from 1968 with a bi-colored "day-night" bezel. Unlike the original, which used the brand's tuning-fork-regulated electric movement, this one's powered by a modern automatic Sellita SW330 with a GMT for tracking another time zone. It's limited to 300 examples.

Diameter: 41mmMovement: Sellita SW330 automaticPrice: $3,500

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Bulova Lunar Pilot

We’ve often discussed the Bulova Lunar Pilot, sometimes also known as "the other Moonwatch." It's a staple among affordable watches, and we never had complaints about its size. But now that you mention it, a bit smaller might be even better — and this is the general trend in watches anyway. And it's exactly what Bulova unexpectedly delivered this month in a couple of versions that are the exact size of the original watch that went to the moon.

Diameter: 43.5mmMovement: Bulova NP20 High Precision QuartzPrice: $895

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Audemars Piguet Code 11.59

Audemars Piguet is positioning its still young 11.59 collection as an entry-level offering with new (relatively) accessible models. With steel cases, simple, time-only automatic movements and 41mm diameters, they’re (again, relatively) approachable in terms of price and wearability. Featuring a new stamped dial pattern that will be a hallmark of the line, they were introduced alongside a range of variants and other new models for 2023.

Diameter: 41mmMovement: Audemars Piguet 4302 automaticPrice: $25,300-$37,400

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Benrus Sea Lord

Resurrected brand Benrus continues its reissue theme with its historical dive watch, the Sea Lord. It's got a traditional, ‘60s dive watch look, and it's vintage-sized, too, at 39mm — and yet it packs 300m of water resistance and a Soprod P024 automatic movement inside. There's a black dial version for traditionalists and one with green dial and bezel for something fresh.

Diameter: 39mmMovement: Soprod P024 automaticPrice: $895

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Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Series

Blancpain will be celebrating the 70th anniversary of its historic Fifty Fathoms watch all year, but it starts off with a 42.3mm version of the modern watch that's usually sized at 45mm. This model is limited to 210 examples total and comes on a 21.5mm-wide NATO strap.

Movement: Blancpain 1315 automaticDiameter: 42.3mmPrice: TBC

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Bell & Ross BR 03 x Alain Silberstein x Grail Watch

A limited-edition of three Bell & Ross watches are decked out in square, black ceramic cases and celebrated designer Alain Silberstein's signature primary colors. One is time-only, another a GMT and the third is a chronograph. Yes you can buy them as a set, too.

Movement: ETA/Sellita automaticDiameter: 42mmPrice: $4,400, $6,700 (GMT), $5,600 (chrono)

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Oris Big Crown Cal. 473

It's got a new dial color, yes, but what makes this version of Oris's Big Crown notable is on view from the caseback. That's right, it's the movement — a new version of the brand's Calibre 400, the manually wound 473, which features an indicator on the movement plate for its 5 days of power reserve.

Movement: Oris Cal. 473 hand-woundDiameter: 38mmPrice: $4,400

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TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer

We're happy to see the classic Monza getting some love from TAG Heuer. This new model, however, takes the sporty '70s chronograph in a distinctly edgy direction along the path forged by the modern Carrera. It features bold colors, a skeletonized dial, a flyback chronograph and a forged carbon case.

Movement: TAG Heuer Heuer 02 Flyback automatic (COSC)Diameter: 42mmPrice: $13,650

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TAG Heuer Carrera 60th Anniversary LE

One of the many anniversaries watch brands will celebrate this year is that of the Heuer Carrera launched in 1963. TAG Heuer kicks it off with a 600-piece limited edition reissue of the historic "Glassbox 2447 SN" model featuring a silver dial and contrasting ("reverse panda") subdials. Its case is 3mm wider than the 36mm original.

Movement: Heuer 02 automaticDiameter: 39mmPrice: $7,400

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Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Edition

Porsche Design used the occasion of the 2023 Grand Prix ("GP") Ice Race to recreate a vintage model from 1972. It features a circa 41mm titanium case, a flyback chronograph movement and some of the most killer retro racing looks anywhere. With a chronometer-certified automatic movement, it's limited to only 250 examples.

Movement: Porsche Design Kaliber WERK 01.240 automaticDiameter: 40.8mmPrice: $9,650

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Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton

Behold: the evolution of the Defy Skyline collection Zenith introduced last year. It features an integrated bracelet and the brand's high-frequency El Primero movement in time-only (rather than chronograph) form. In line with many other Zenith (and LVMH brand) watches, the new version gets a skeletonized dial. Its pattern is based on the brand's old logo rather than the current five-pointed star.

Movement: Zenith El Primero 3620 SK automaticDiameter: 41mmPrice: $11,000

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Maen Brooklyn 36 Triple Calendar

One of our favorite bang-for-buck indy watchmakers released a new model with a triple calendar feature. That means it shows the month, date and day of the week — even though the latter two being displayed in contrasting subdials might make you think of a chronograph at first glance. This layout and functionality comes courtesy of the Miyota 9122 automatic movement in a nicely vintage-sized case.

Movement: Miyota 9122 automaticDiameter: 36mmPrice: ~$649

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Hublot Classic Fusion Original

Most Hubot watches today are big, brash and showy, but new models in the Classic Fusion line harken to the brand's early days. They're thin, minimal, and they come in three sizes of 33mm, 38mm and 42mm with options of titanium, gold or black ceramic cases. Our hot take after trying them on: the 42mm wears perfectly (more like 40mm).

Movement: Quartz (33mm), Sellita SW300 automaticDiameter: 33mm, 38mm, 42mmPrice: $6,500-$24,100

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Zodiac x Rowing Blazers Super Sea Wolf

Apparel label Rowing Blazers' collab with Seiko is a tough act to follow. But it's aiming to build on that success with another partnership, this time building on Swiss watchmaker Zodiac's Super Sea Wolf dive watch. It features the Rowing Blazers' signature use of color, but this time it mixes in another collaborating partner: the Paris pub called Harry's Bar with its dancing flies logo.

Movement: STP 1-11 automaticDiameter: 40mmPrice: $1,595

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Cartier Tank Francaise

The Francaise version of Cartier's famous Tank watch isn't new, of course (it launched in 1996), but is updated for 2023. It now features mostly brushed surfaces, more angular facets and a crown that's set into the case. It comes on a modern-feeling steel bracelet and is available in steel or gold in three sizes, including a "large" model with an automatic movement.

Movement: Quartz; Sellita SW150 automaticDiameter: 21.7mm, 27mm, 30.5mmPrice: $3,550-$5,500 (for the steel models)

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Omega Speedmaster Super Racing

The Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is a modern-looking Speedy, but it's most notable for how damn accurate it is. It introduces a new technology Omega calls the Spirate system that allows for an accuracy of 0-+2 seconds per day via super-fine adjustments. That raises the bar and makes it just about the most accurate mass-production mechanical movement out there.

Movement: Omega 9920 automaticDiameter: 44.25mmPrice: $11,000

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Synchron Poseidon Ice Diver

Synchron's well received first watch is finally followed up with a new version. The Poseidon Ice Diver looks like the Military with some different colors and a sword-shaped hand, but it also features a more premium automatic movement with the La Joux-Perret G100. It's limited to 1,000 examples and produced in partnership with Poseidon Diving Systems.

Movement: La Joux-Perret G100 automaticDiameter: 42mmPrice: $1,290 retail ($999 preorder)

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Parmigiani Tonda PF Xiali Calendar

Following the Parmigiani's perpetual calendar that tracked both Gregorian and Islamic Hijri calendars comes a new watch for the Chinese lunar-solar calendar. Perpetual calendars are complex to begin with, but they're also well established in watchmaking, so a different system presents interesting and significant challenges. It's an impressive artistic and watchmaking achievement, even if you don't follow the Chinese calendar.

Movement: Parmigiani PF008 automaticDiameter: 42mmPrice: ~$64,000

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Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW295

Celebrating the 110th anniversary of Seiko's first watch, Grand Seiko has released a special reissue of its own first watch from 1960. Confused? Don't worry about it too much and just focus on this gorgeous creation. It bumps the original's diameter up to 38mm (from 35) and features a hand-enameled urushi lacquer dial in a Brilliant Hard Titanium case. The text and indices are made from raised enamel and coated with gold dust.

Movement: Grand Seiko 9S64 hand-woundDiameter: 38mmPrice: $13,800

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Grand Seiko